Fuel Pump Conversion
Making your carby B2000/B2200 or Courier fuel tank accept a fuel pump suitable for EFI
FUEL VAPOR IS EXPLOSIVE AND VERY DANGEROUS, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BRAZE OR WELD NEAR YOUR FUEL TANK OR ANY FUEL
Using the Kia Sportage Pump
One option for getting the correct fuel pump into your B series fuel tank is to use the fuel pump from your donor car. This is relatively straight forward but you will require someone who can weld or braze if you cannot.
You will need the whole fuel pump and sender units from both vehicles, Some 5/16(7.937 mm) steel or copper fuel line, minimum 2 fixings such as stainless rivets, a soldering iron and heat shrink. It may be easier in some cases to remove your wellside or tray to get access to the pump than removing the whole tank.
The goal is to mount the fuel pump to the b series assembly in a way that the new fuel pumps pickup is in the same place, If its mounted too high you may run out of fuel before your tank is truely near empty. Its advised that when doing this you measure from the old pickup to the top flange where it screws down to the top of the tank, and try keep the new pickup at this height when you fix it off. Note when doing this any fuel lines that are stock from your b series ute will be rubbish as they will not hold the now 60+psi fuel pressure. The hard lines will be fine.
Start by removing the fuel pump cartridge from the sportage and cutting its bracket off, this will be fixed to the b series with screws, rivets or welding to secure it. Make sure not to damage the small length of fuel hose that joins the pump to the hardline, you will need to save this for re-use. Then proceed to remove your b series pump and cut off anything un-needed to allow your sportage to bolt up. You will need to bend your b series brackets so when the new pump is fixed onto it, the hardline for the feed lines up with the pump. Once this is done and your happy tack weld where any relief cuts were made that allowed it to bend so its stiff again.
The next step is to modify the wiring coming into the tank to power the fuel pump. Cut solder and heat shrink the cable for the plug and ensure the earth is still well attached. Plug this in now and ensure it won't come off by mistake, then zip tie the cable so its secure and wont rub.
Lastly you will need to use 5/16 fuel line to make the return line, This should replace the smaller return line that is currently on the top of the sender. Make sure your new line follows the curve of the bracket as if not it will not let you fit up the sender, the photos shown of this are wrong. The return line should drop the fuel as low as possible so not to aerate the fuel in the tank and create excessive vapor, Do not let it drop straight into the fuel tank from the top. Carefully tack weld the return pipe to the top cover of the sender being careful not to put too much heat into the insulated connector for the fuel pump. It may be handy to keep water nearby to keep it cool before the temperature creeps and melts it. You can also clamp vise grips nearby to help absorb some of the heat.
Once that is all welded in paint it with fuel resistant paint and fit it to your tank. It should look something like this;
Why replace the return line?
Okay so the theory is simple, When your FE3 is idling its not using much fuel. This means excess fuel from the fuel rail is bleed off by the fuel pressure regulator, and there is a lot of fuel not being used especially if your fuel pump is upgraded to a 255LPH pump for example.
This will cause fuel pressure in the rail to raise, making it run richer. So to combat this, we make sure the return line is the same diameter as the feed line. This means the return line in the fuel sender must be changed and the hardline under the cab to the engine bay must be changed.